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Opus Anglicanum
Text and Images ©1997 by G. Romilly Goodfellow
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Opus Anglicanum, or simply "English work," is a form of embroidery practiced in England in the high middle ages. It uses couched metal threads combined with silk surface stitches. It appears to have reached its height of popularity in the mid 13th century. In actuality, however, it was not so much the form or technique as a regional distinction. The work performed in the shops and guilds of England was the trendsetter in the field of embroidery. Embroiderers all over Europe used the same techniques during this time period, but the English were renowned for the quality of their work.
Embroiderers were held to a high standard; much embroidery of this type went to ecclesiastical purposes, such as the copes, miters, and robes. From records we know that Pope Gregory III ordered work done in England for his copes. We have little information about secular uses of this form of embroidery. There are some household records providing that embroidered clothing and purses were being purchased, but they did not survive, probably because of the tendency to reuse secular work in other projects, and to strip out the gold and silver when it was needed.
The defining characteristic of opus anglicanum is the extensive use of a stitch called underside couching. Pieces were done in colored silk thread, with gold and silver couched to form the background, often completely covering the ground fabric. The couching was done in such a way that the background formed geometric patterns on its own, such as lozenges, fleurs de lis, or brick patterns. Often jewels and beads were worked into the pattern.
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This type of embroidery can be worked on several different types of ground fabric. Linen, velvet (not the stretch kind), silk or cotton are preferable.
The design itself was historically worked in silk. I use Kreinik's Soie D'Alger, Renaissance Designs' Splendor, or Madiera Silk floss, all of which have a beautiful hand when you pull it through the fabric. Now you can work in cotton floss as well. Stick with the higher quality brands, however, such as DMC or Anchor. A less expensive type will wear and fray with the small, tight stitches required.
The gold and silver thread that is couched down is thicker. Modern Japan gold is gold wrapped around nylon. If you can actually find gold or silver wrapped silk, it would be more historically accurate and a dream to work with. To couch it down, you will need a strong thread, either linen or highly twisted silk. The trick is to find something that you can pull rather hard upon and that won't break. As I am not trying to be slavishly authentic, I often use hand quilting thread. It seems to be strong enough not to break. Linen thread is better, and available through many of the lacemaking suppliers.
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Obviously you will want a needle. I prefer to use different needles for various parts of the design. When working with the floss in standard stitches, I use a thinner needle than I do for the underside couching. For working with the floss, I'd suggest using the same size needle you would use if working "standard" embroidery with one or two strands.
For the underside couching, you will want a needle that is a little thicker than you would normally choose. This will move the threads of the fabric aside so that the gold thread can more easily be pulled through. (See techniques)
Make sure you have a hoop or scroll bars that will hold the fabric taut. If you want to use a hoop, it needs to be large enough to cover the entire design. Otherwise it will leave rings on the stitching that are impossible to get out.
The ground fabric should be kept as tight as possible while working. You will need both hands, so it is imperative that the work be kept on a floor or lap stand while you are working. Your local needlework shop should be able to help you with this. Make sure you get one that is sturdy enough not to fall over when it is holding a heavy fabric. Another option is to work at a table, with your hoop laid between the table edge and your lap.
Another thing you will want is a lap or floor stand to hold your work as you work on it. These techniques, in particular underside couching, require two hands to work. If you do not have something to hold the work steady, you will be in dire straits.
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This form of embroidery may be used for any number of decorative items. As noted earlier, most of the extant pieces we have to look at are ecclesiastical in nature. However, included in house records are expenditures for household goods. There are records of banners, purses, and hats.
I have used it at the cuff and neckline of a 13th century gown (the cuff is shown at the top of this page), as a wall hanging, and in banners. Other appropriate uses could be hemlines, tabards, etc. In the 13th century, entire gowns and surcoats might have been embroidered. But keep in mind that these were done in shops and often took several years to complete. If you have the time and desire to try something like this, I salute you.
The important thing is to have fun with it. This is a versatile technique, and although time consuming, the results are worth every minute.
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Rupert, Gibbon & Spider
PO Box 425
Healdsburg, CA 95448
1-800-442-0455
Call for catalog - silk yardage in white and black (reasonable prices), scarves, dyestuffs, hoops & floorstands
Hedgehog Handworks
http://www.hedgehoghandworks.com
PO Box 45384
Westchester, CA 90045
(310) 670-6040
These people specialize in historic embroidery. They are really friendly people, too, which helps when you are looking for something esoteric. $5.00 Catalog, but a) you get it back with your first order, and b) when you see all the neat things they have for sale you won't care about the money you spent on the catalog -- you'll be too busy trying to figure out how to pay for your huge order. J
Lacis
http://www.lacis.com
3163 Adeline Street
Berkeley, CA 94703
Phone: (510) 843-7178
Mon-Fri 9:00AM - 5:30 pm PST
Embroidery, lacemaking supplies, and some vintage laces. A shop to explore -- either their catalog or in person.
Robin & Russ, Handweavers, Inc.
http://www.robinandruss.com
533 North Adams Street
McMinnville, OR 97128
1-800-WEAVE-91
(503) 472-5760
I really like these people. Last time I was in Oregon I stopped by their shop and felt like I'd walked into textile heaven. Threads galore, lacemaking supplies, inkle looms, full looms, linen thread. You name it, they've got it. And if they don't, they'll help you find it.
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